Glyceryl Stearate: What It Is, What It Does, and Is It Safe?

Glyceryl stearate is one of the most widely used ingredients in creams and lotions. Here is what it is, what it does, and what the safety reviews found, with a link for every fact.

What is glyceryl stearate?

Glyceryl stearate is the monoester of glycerin and stearic acid (CIR, 2016). In plain words, it forms when one unit of stearic acid, a fatty acid (a building block of fats and oils), joins to glycerin, a common skin care ingredient that draws in water. On an ingredient list it appears as "Glyceryl Stearate," which is its INCI name (the standard name used on cosmetic ingredient lists).

It is not only a cosmetic ingredient. Glyceryl stearate is widely used in foods as an emulsifier and thickener, and the FDA lists it as GRAS (generally recognized as safe) and as a direct food additive (CIR, 2016).

What does glyceryl stearate do in a cream?

The CIR safety report lists its cosmetic jobs as skin conditioning agent (emollient), surfactant (an ingredient that lets oil and water mix; here, an emulsifying agent) and fragrance ingredient (CIR, 2016).

An emollient is an ingredient that softens skin. An emulsifier helps oil and water stay mixed, which matters because a cream is a blend of both. Without emulsifiers, the oil and water in a cream would separate.

It is popular with formulators. In 2015 FDA data, glyceryl stearate was reported in 5,153 cosmetic formulas, 4,229 of them leave on products such as creams and lotions. That was the highest use count of the 44 related ingredients in the review (CIR, 2016).

Is glyceryl stearate safe?

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) is the expert panel that reviews the safety of cosmetic ingredients in the U.S. In 1982 it concluded that glyceryl stearate and glyceryl stearate SE are safe for topical application to humans (CIR, 2016).

The panel reviewed it again with 43 related ingredients. Its 2016 final amended report concluded that these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration (CIR, 2016).

In the studies the panel reviewed, glyceryl stearate and glyceryl stearate SE at up to 100 percent were mildly irritating or non irritating to rabbit skin. In seven guinea pig studies, neither one at 0.1 percent caused sensitization (skin allergy) (CIR, 2016).

How to spot glyceryl stearate on a label

Look for "Glyceryl Stearate." A related ingredient, "Glyceryl Stearate SE," is a self emulsifying grade that contains some sodium or potassium stearate (salts of stearic acid that help it mix into water) (CIR, 2016). Glyceryl stearate is ingredient 6 on the Corium 21 label (Corium 21 ingredients).

U.S. rules say cosmetic ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, meaning the largest amount comes first. Ingredients at 1 percent or less may be listed in any order after the ones above 1 percent (FDA Cosmetics Labeling Guide).

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FAQ

Glyceryl stearate vs glyceryl stearate SE: what is the difference?

"SE" stands for self emulsifying. Glyceryl stearate SE is a grade of glyceryl stearate that contains some sodium or potassium stearate (salts of stearic acid), and its listed job is emulsifying agent. The CIR has found both safe (CIR, 2016).

Is glyceryl stearate used in food?

Yes. It is widely used in foods as an emulsifier and thickener, including in breads, and the FDA lists it as GRAS (CIR, 2016).

Is glyceryl stearate safe?

The CIR expert panel concluded in its 2016 final amended report that glyceryl stearate is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration (CIR, 2016).