Free guide from Corium 21

Ingredient comparisons: what's really moisturizing your skin

Aloe or shea butter? Glycerin or hyaluronic acid? Lotion or cream? These side-by-side guides explain what each moisturizer ingredient actually does, what the research found, and how to spot it on a label. Every figure links to its source.

The three jobs a moisturizer does

Almost every moisturizer ingredient does one of three jobs. Dry skin usually needs all three, and that's why most comparisons below come down to "use both." The American Academy of Dermatology recommends a cream or ointment rather than a lotion for dry skin, fragrance-free, applied to damp skin.

pull water in

Humectants

Humectants are hygroscopic substances that help the outer layer of skin absorb water. They make skin feel hydrated but need a partner to keep that water from evaporating.

Examples: Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, urea, lactic acid

soften and smooth

Emollients

Emollients are mostly lipids (fats and oils) that fill the gaps between dry, lifted skin cells, so skin feels smoother and softer.

Examples: Shea butter, cocoa butter, coconut oil, ceramides, jojoba oil

seal water in

Occlusives

Occlusives form a water-repellent layer over skin. Petrolatum (petroleum jelly) at 5% or more can cut water loss through the skin by more than 98%; lanolin (wool wax), mineral oil and dimethicone (a silicone) cut it by about 20% to 30%.

Examples: Petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, dimethicone, beeswax

Compare ingredients side by side

Each guide has a short answer, an at-a-glance table, what studies found, and an FAQ.

Check your own moisturizer

Paste any ingredient list into the free Ingredient Label Decoder. It finds the likely 1% line, estimates a rough percentage for each ingredient, and explains what each one does. Nothing you paste leaves your browser.

Open the decoderDry skin statistics

Frequently asked questions

What's the difference between a humectant, an emollient and an occlusive?

Humectants such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid and aloe vera draw water into the outer layer of skin. Emollients such as shea butter and ceramides (fats skin makes naturally) soften and smooth it. Occlusives such as petrolatum form a layer that slows water loss. Most good moisturizers combine all three.

Which moisturizer ingredients do dermatologists recommend for dry skin?

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests a cream or ointment containing one or more of jojoba oil, dimethicone, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, lanolin, mineral oil, petrolatum or shea butter, labeled fragrance-free and applied to damp skin.

How can I tell how much of an ingredient is in my moisturizer?

Ingredients above 1% must be listed from most to least, so the first few make up most of the product. Corium 21's free Ingredient Label Decoder finds the likely 1% line and estimates a rough percentage range for each ingredient from typical use levels.

Sources

  1. Purnamawati S, Indrastuti N, Danarti R, Saefudin T. The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review. Clinical Medicine & Research. 2017;15(3-4):75-87. https://www.clinmedres.org/content/15/3-4/75
  2. American Academy of Dermatology. Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skin. https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/dermatologists-tips-relieve-dry-skin

These guides are general information, not medical advice. Corium 21 is a family-owned company that makes a moisturizing cream with certified organic aloe vera. Trusted since 1994. Family-owned in Oregon. It is a cosmetic moisturizer and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.